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Uncompahgre
Winter Camping
Solitude of Western Colorado plateau creates unforgettable experience
By Doug Tuttle
One needs only to visit Colorado once to feel the surrealistic, almost mystical, presence she commands. To stand and scan hundreds of towering jagged peaks, watch a sunset over the remote southwestern canyons, or to smell the morning mountain air above timberline is impossible to describe. But I will try to convey to you in my contributions to Colorado Journal a small piece of the magic of Colorado. I will help you picture in your mind places you may remember fondly, or maybe places you have never been but would love to see someday.
A couple days ago we experienced one of those sunny, warm winter days that
are the trademark of Western Colorado. I remembered warm winter days when I could bathe my face in the bright sun and still be surrounded by snow. Spring is just around the corner, and the season is one of the best times of the year to do some winter camping.
Years ago, I took a solo backcountry winter camping trip during the second week of March. The weather forecast called for winter-like conditions, and it didn't look like the best opportunity to venture into the backcountry. But I was experienced and realized that if the weather turned ugly, I could simply retreat from my original plans. Besides, I had been planning this trip for weeks, so a little weather wasn't going to stop me.
My destination was a remote canyon on the Uncompahgre Plateau. I arrived at the parking area to find two inches of new snow and wispy clouds mixed with patches of blue sky. The weather appeared to be clearing, so I set my course and started upward. Within
an hour the sky had cleared, a radiant sun had appeared, and the day looked glorious.
I was soon on cross-country skis, whisking through untracked snow. I wore a T-shirt; the temperature was perfect. The snow was starting to melt but wasn't sloppy, and the sun gently wrapped my face in its warmth. At the end of a good, strenuous day, I perched on the edge of a red-rock canyon. Behind me was a vast, undisturbed plateau of aspen and spruce. Stretched below me was a beautiful canyon that meandered gracefully to the Uncompahgre valley far below. Red rocks, green trees, and white snow made the environment all very soothing to my soul; it had good "chi," as my wife would say. This was where I made camp.
I leisurely set up my tent under the brilliant blue sky. As the day passed and the sun slowly retired, I sat snug and comfortable and watched as the sky put on a light show unequalled by mortal man. Vivid colors washed 360 degrees around me, changing and moving like an elaborate, colossal, living work of art. It was as though the show was just for me, a reward of sorts for putting my faith in Mother Nature and making a trip that I had only hours earlier considered canceling.
As night fell, the temperature dropped, and I held out as long as the lights remained; I didn't want to miss one second of this glorious concert of light. After some reading, a hot meal, and a couple
of cups of hot chocolate, I snuggled into my bed for a cool, quiet night in the Western Colorado wilderness. Sleep did not come right away as I savored the day in my mind.
The next morning was chilly, but the sun greeted me again with the warmth and comfort of a good friend. I opened the tent, lingered in my bag, and drank hot chocolate as the sun quickly warmed the cloudless sky. This day was warmer and more beautiful than the day before. I ventured out to do some day-exploring for a few hours in the morning, then came back and reluctantly broke camp. When I arrived at my vehicle at the end of the
day, the sky was dark and the mud was starting to freeze in the evening
chill. I had waited until the last minute to leave this unforgettable place. I knew that my life would never be the same, and I thanked the night for my trip and returned home content.
Western Colorado is alive with a wild, diverse outdoor environment, and the Uncompahgre Plateau offers an endless variety of outdoor
opportunities -- snowmobiling, cross-country skiing, mountain biking, summer hiking, and backpacking. The flanks of the plateau are creased with hundreds of seldom-explored canyons. The Uncompahgre Plateau stretches north and south for almost 100 miles and can be accessed from Colorado Highway 141 south of Grand Junction, Colorado Highway 90 west of Montrose, and from the south on Colorado Highway 90 northeast of Naturita. You can explore new areas by following any of
the dozens of old logging roads that crisscross parts of the mountain. With an elevation ranging from 6,500 feet to almost 11,000 feet, the Uncompahgre Plateau is a place you can enjoy year round. Winter brings cold temperatures and possible snow at all elevations, so plan accordingly.
I hope your visit to Western Colorado is as unforgettable as my adventure was on a beautiful March weekend. Until next time, think of Colorado often. Your fellow outdoor lover, Doug Tuttle.
About the Author
Doug Tuttle is a Western Colorado native and has a love for the Colorado outdoors that he has enjoyed for more than 40 years. He operates an adventure planning service, Beast Of Burden, which details many trips in Colorado. You can find Beast Of Burden at
http://www.beastofburden.biz or
http://www.bobadventure.com .
-- Posted Feb. 26, 2001
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